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May 14, 2019

The beach!

A wonderful little non tourist beach.  Most of the businesses are still closed from the winter.  I am mostly alone in the campground.  I found one restaurant open last evening of the many here.  But what a find!

I walked down the shore line road to find this open air, patio style bar and eatery.  When I entered there were no other customers, just the staff setting up and arranging things.  I sat down and waited.  They appeared not to see me, although I knew they did.  Finally a woman came over and asked if I was going to just drink or if I might have something to eat.  A strange way to open the conversation.  She continued not giving me a chance to answer.  Maybe a small plate of something to eat with my beer.  I had not yet ordered a beer.  She continued on talking offering options but not stopping to give me the opportunity to choose.  Finally she stopped and just looked at me.  I looked back and said nothing.  I could see this was a game of sorts.

After a while she named some beers and walked off.  She reappeared a little later with a plate of food and a beer.  The food as you can see was a topess type of plate.  I could not tell for sure what most of it was.  I did recognize the spinach with feta cheese, but others were new to me.  As it turned out the white things were chicken in a  cream and onion sauce and a meat ball.  Still not sure what type of meat.

As I ate, yes for those that know I do not eat chicken I did eat it,  I began watching a man building a driftwood sculpture.  He was very good at seeing what should be placed where and when.  I looked around the room and saw many, many uses of driftwood.   Some amazing pieces just placed here and there and others assembled in various  ways.  I walked over to watch more closely and asked if he spoke English.  This is the standard opening for all my conversations in Greece.  He did not or maybe a little. 

I had been watching for a while when who I thought was the bar tender asked me where I was from.  Then he asked why I was here on this a local’s beach in off season. Soon we were moving to the music that he was playing from his lap top over the bar’s speaker system and in a deep conversation.  We were joined by the waitress and the cook.  They were interested in how I came to be in this place.

I discovered the he was not the bar tender and she was not the waitress.  He, Dimitris was the real sculpturer and she the owner.  Although she described herself as the wife of the owner.  When I told them I had bicycled here the interest grew and the owner got on the phone telling her husband to come to the bar.  I was asked where I was going and when I said Norkapp the interest excelerated.  Turns out Norkapp is a big goal of Greek motorcyclists of which she and her husband are.  They have this goal, as she said.

Now more people arrived and it was time for me to go as I wanted to be on the road a little early in the morning.  I had a 80 kms day planned through some small mountains on the way to Delphi.  But no, I could not leave until the husband arrived.  He did very shortly and we talked a little.  Saying I must go he invited me to breakfast in the morning at 10 so we could talk a little more.  That would too late for me to leave so I decided to stay another day.

Breakfast was excellent!  Not for the food, but the company.  Reina and Tasos, the wife and husband both came along with the apprentice sculpturer and several others.  The conversation was a mix of Greek, English, pleasure and business. 

I had my first cappuccino, along with a toasted ham, tomato and cheese sandwich and a loquat.  What is a loquat?  Sort of like a smaller cumquat but different tasting.  Helpful, right?  You can look it up.  

I had a few errands to run and excused myself but not before Tasos gave the name and address of a friend in a town I was going to pass through.  He told me to please stop and meet his friend.  I will if possible.

Tonight I will stop by the bar for a little while.  Tomorrow I must get moving early.

Meeting others is such a large part of travel for me.   

–Bill H.

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