Posted on Leave a comment

An Interesting Climbing Companion

January 15, 2020

Terra Negara, Colombia

The Road near Terra Negara
The Road near Terra Negara

Had my first bad interpersonal encounter in all my years of travel. I mean where my life could have been in danger.  Such a contrast to all my Columbian travels.
I was climbing very slowly up as I had been yesterday and most of the day today.  I was very tired.  When out of a side road came a man, moving fast.  He was dressed as a field worker and very dirty.  I have learned that Columbians take a shower every day no matter their economic status.  It is very important to them.  
The man ran up alongside of me and began yelling in a Spanish that I had not heard.  Running very close as I weaved up the hill, making me nervous about colliding with him.  He kept yelling and yelling. I have learned that it is best to pretend not to speak the language in such circumstances.  In my case that was very easy.
As he continued to run close by and yell, I told him to go away in English, several times.  He did not and the more he yelled the more difficult it was for me to continue to maintain on this difficult climb. Finally, I stopped and looked directly at him and told him to go away in Spanish.  He then took out his machete and waved it in the air while making cutting motions.  
OK, I am standing over my bike, holding it from moving back downhill.  No way to defend myself.  I was tired from climbing for 2 days and not in the mood for this action.  By now he was very irritated and telling me to give him money for food.  I again looked directly at him and said I was not giving him anything, that I did not have money enough for him and he should go away.  He pointed at my bike saying how much it costs and I could give him some money.  He was still yelling.
I had had enough!  I told him I was an old man and did not care what he did to me.  What I had was mine and he was getting none of it.  Then I told him to go away again, in a command Spanish.  He brought his machete a little closer, then put it away.  Finally, he waved to me and walked up the hill, stopping a couple of times to see what I was doing.  After a little while I rode on up and saw him turn off on another dirt road.
As I thought about this, I realized the man was most likely Venezuelan.  The dirty clothes and body, the strange Spanish and the aggressive nature, none of which I have seen since arriving in Columbia. 
Please know that is a refugee experience and not Columbian.  I have learned to like Columbianos and to some degree understand them and their history. I understand why some many Americans and Ashlanders have brought their lives here. That is except for all the big hills that one has to climb on a bicycle.

—Bill H.

⋄ ⋄ ⋄

Posted on Leave a comment

Manizales (again still)

Manizales
Manizales, the Approach

January 8 (still), 2020

Manizales, Colombia

Manizales
Manizales, Colombia

The ride from Irra to Manizales was up a lot, hard and not very fun.  Heavy traffic, dusty and hot.  It took until after dark to arrive.  
I do like this city. It is worth the effort.  Not sure why, it just feels comfortable. The people are giving, smile a lot and offer a closeness.  It is cooler here, just enough to ask you to go out and enjoy the air.  
It is Feria.  Fireworks, street booths, dancing, bands and lots of people. I stopped a taxi and asked him to take me to El Centro and la feria.  He told me to take the cable, it was much cheaper.  Think about a taxi driver telling anyone that.  
Following the taxi drivers advice,  I took the cable car to the main part of town, which is much higher than my motel.  It seems that many cities in Columbia have cable car systems as part of their metro.  With all of the large hills and mountains, It is how people get around.  
On that subject of honesty of the taxi driver, honesty is a real thing in Columbia.  The other day, while standing on a corner, fishing around in my pockets I dropped my credit card.  I man tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to it, asking if it was mine.  Wow, can you imagine that happening in any city?  When I shared this story with my friend in Bogota he had a similar one!  Not the image that we have of Columbia via our media.

Manizales, Colombia
Manizales, Colombia

Called Steve in Bogota and arranged for him to meet me at the bus station when I arrived.  An 8 hour bus ride is not something to look forward to but I wanted to spend a little time with Steve and Mary in Bogota before he went to Ashland for business.
Walk to the bus station, compro me boleta for 8 AM tomorrow and back to my motel to write a little before dinner.  Did I say I like this city?  The motel staff has been super friendly, giving me a bigger room for my bicycle and stuff on the first floor.  They tell me not to order this or that because it is too much or it is a local dish that might take getting used to.  Just so giving.
Show up at the bus station an hour early and again the people are great.  A young man comes out from behind the glass enclosed counter to help me with the bicycle.  No, I do not have to disarm my bicycle it can be put on the bus with the bags on it, he tells me. Disarm in this case means to disassmble.  In a few minuets I am sitting at a table in the food court eating my breakfast and drinking coffee in complete comfort and peace. 

The bus arrives and the driver loads my bike, standing up in the basement of the bus.  We are given a headset for the music and movies shown on the seat back screens.  The seats are wide and comfortable.  Off we go, in airconditoned comfort.
The terrain of Columbia is wonderful.  As the bus climbs out of Manizales the mountains and valleys are revealed. I almost wish I had ridden.  Almost as the bus takes over a half hour to crest the first climb.  That would be over half a day on the bike and we have a few more climbs to get over this chain of the Andes. The wish goes away as I take a sip of my cold orange juice and turn on a children’s movie.  I watch these to learn Spanish.
We go on and on as the scenery gets better and better.  Soon I realize that am watching a Disney movie out the bus window, as this just cannot be the real Columbia.  And if it is, it not possible for the next lush green mountains to be better than the last, but they are.  

Manizales Gondolas
Manizales Gondolas

We stop for lunch in a town just on the other side of a large river.  I learn that the pedestrian bridge that I see just down river was the original bridge and was build in the US and emailed here.  Well, maybe not emailed, shipped here, maybe with Amazon Prime.  
Back to the ever changing road.  Now about 3 hrs left.  Bogota is about 8000 feet and Manizales about 7000, not much difference except when you know how much you gain and loose along the way.  Up and down, up and down, up and down, dizzy yet?  No, up and down, up and down, up oh well you understand. 

Soon Steve is standing at the door of the bus welcoming me to Bogota and their hospitality.

—Bill H.

⋄ ⋄ ⋄